First cultivated as a food crop in the poor soil and harsh climate
of northern and eastern Europe and Russia during the 4th century
BCE, rye remains popular in these regions and across the globe. The
original loaves of northern and eastern Europe and Russia were made with
100-percent rye flour — dark, dense, strong, sustaining. As
these traditions came to America, the loaves lightened in both color and
heft as portions of the rye flour were replaced with softer, cheaper
wheat-based flours. For better or worse, the blend stuck.
My recipe is made from one part light rye flour to two parts bread
flour, and incorporates olive oil and molasses, which all contribute to
a hearty-yet-fluffy bread. Sweet licorice-like caraway seeds add a
gentle crunch and drive home the classic flavor.
Marbled rye is not the easiest to put together, but with a little
hands-on effort, this beautifully decorative bread is definitely worth
it. My marbling is created by layering and rolling portions of plain rye
dough with portions of the same dough darkened with cocoa powder. The
end result was faint — next time I might increase the amount of cocoa or
try a cocoa-espresso powder combo to give it a boost.
In order to have your two doughs ready to marble at the same time,
measure out all your ingredients — and combine dry ingredients, for both
the light and dark doughs — in advance. This significantly
streamlines the process, ensuring that both dough portions are done
rising and ready to work with within minutes of each other.
Devote a cool morning to baking, turn up the oven fires, and turn out
warmth, yeasty aromas, and a fancy yet homey bread. I do hope you try
for yourself!
Marbled Rye Bread
Makes: 1 very large loaf (about 28 thin slices)
Ingredients
For the light rye dough
- 3 ounces, or roughly ¾ cups, light rye flour
- 6¾ ounces, or roughly 1½ cups, unbleached bread flour
- ¾ teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon instant yeast
- 1 teaspoon caraway seeds (optional)
- ¾ cup + 1 tablespoon lukewarm water, between 110° and 115° F, divided
- 1 teaspoon molasses
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
For the dark rye dough
- ¾ cup light rye flour
- 6¾ ounces, or roughly 1½ cups, unbleached bread flour
- ¾ teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon instant yeast
- 1 teaspoon caraway seeds (optional)
- ¾ cup + 1 tablespoon lukewarm water, between 110° and 115° F, divided
- 1 teaspoon molasses
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1 tablespoon unsweetened cocoa powder, whisked into 1 tablespoon water to form a paste
Instructions
FOR THE LIGHT RYE PORTION:
- In a large mixing bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer, briefly stir
together the flours, salt, yeast and caraway seeds, if using. Add
¾ cup warm water, molasses and olive oil to a large liquid measuring cup
or small bowl and stir to combine.
- Pour liquid ingredients into the dry, and mix with your hands, a
wooden spoon or a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, on
low, until a rough dough is formed. Scrape the sides of the bowl with a
spatula or dough scraper to help incorporate any of the remaining dry
bits. Continue to knead with your hands or stand mixer, with speed
increased to medium-low, until dough comes together in a cohesive ball,
adding 1 tablespoon water only if needed. The dough is ready when it is
smooth, springs back when gently pressed, and is tacky but not sticky to
the touch or sticking to the sides of the bowl.
- Knead the dough a few times on a lightly floured surface to help
form it into a ball. Transfer to a lightly oiled bowl, and roll it
around to coat. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside at room
temperature or inside a turned-off oven until doubled in volume, about
90 minutes.
FOR THE DARK RYE PORTION:
Immediately after completing the light rye portion, repeat the same
process as above for the dark rye portion, adding the cocoa-water paste
to the liquid mixture before adding it to the dry ingredients.
Following the same process for kneading, transferring to oiled bowl
and covering lightly with plastic wrap for 90 minutes or until doubled
in volume. This portion should be done proofing only a few minutes after the light rye.
MARBLING AND BAKING
- When both doughs are risen, line a large baking tray with parchment
paper or a baking mat. Place the dough balls onto a lightly floured
surface, and divide and shape each ball into 2 evenly sized oblong
circles, roughly 8 inches long and 5 inches wide. Stack the dough
portions on top of one another (see photo at right), alternating light
and dark, to total 4 layers.
- Starting from the long side, roll the four layers tightly to form a
log, pressing the dough together with your fingers as you go and
pinching the final seam as best you can. Very briefly — otherwise your
marbling won't be as prominent — use the palms of your hands to gently
roll the loaf back and forth, working from the center out toward the
ends, to help stretch and seal the dough.
- Transfer the dough, seam-side down, to a baking tray and drape a
piece of oiled plastic wrap loosely over the top. Rest again, at room
temperature, until almost doubled in volume, between 60 to 90 minutes.
- Preheat the oven to 350°F with a rack in the middle position.
Remove plastic from the dough. If you wish, cut a few ¼-inch-deep slits
on a diagonal across the top of the loaf. Bake, rotating the tray once
at halfway point, until the bread is golden brown and cooked through,
about 40 to 45 minutes. When done, the bread should sound hollow when
tapped on the bottom, and an instant-read thermometer should register
190°F.
- Remove the bread from the oven and transfer to a wire rack. Cover
with a light kitchen towel for a more tender crust and soft interior.
Cool completely, at least 1 hour, before slicing or storing.
- Bread will keep 3 to 5 days in a sealed plastic bag or container on
the counter. For longer storage, slice the bread in half and wrap first
with plastic, then foil. Freeze the wrapped loaf in a
tightly-sealed freezer bag or container up to 1 month. To enjoy from the
freezer: Remove the bread from its container and thaw in wrapping for
30 to 60 minutes at room temperature. Preheat the oven to 425ºF, and
bake 3 to 5 minutes. Alternatively, thaw the bread overnight in
its container and wrapping on the counter. Slice and eat as desired!